Christmas with the Levillains

I last wrote to you on Thursday before PA and I visited the Christmas market one last time and took in the sights and sounds of the Mayor's office illuminaton! Here is a phot I captured for you at the risk of freezing my fingers off! (I'll post the video once youtube uploads it.)

Friday was a great day of French Christmas activities. PA and I made a batch of date balls to bring to the party that night. At 7pm, we metroed to meet his mom to drive to his aunt Therese's house. It was the Levillain side of the family with three of PA's aunts, a cousin, her two kids, and then PA's immediate family.

We were a bit late, having gotten lost on the way to the small town outside Rennes. The kids were eating already so we just chilled. When they went to the kitchen for their desserts, Pere Noël or Father Christmas dropped off their presents! The kids scrambled back out and went crazy! PA and I then spent a good a good amount of time assembling a parking garage for little Loic.

Dinner was seafood, the preference of the hostess Therese. We started with platters of raw oysters, shrimp, whelks, and winkles, all served with mayo. The main course was salmon and rice with a yummy red sauce. Then was a huge cheese course of six or seven varieties. Dessert was a sampling of my date balls (which went over very well), pistachio cakes with white chocolate on top, and a chocolate mousse log covered in ladyfingers. All soooooo delicious! And after that was a coffee and tea course with more chocolates... Phew!

The party lasted late into the night, so PA and I were dropped off at my apartment around 2am. It was officially Christmas, so I didn't feel too weird about opening gifts at night. The family sent me warm socks, sweaters, a new dress, and crafty things like knitting to keep me occupied. PA got me a French press, an awesome black vest, and another gift that hasn't arrived yet. For PA, my parents sent a bunch of Lakers gear, and I got him personalized M&Ms, cologne, and a meerkat shirt!

No sleep for the weary--we had to get to a lunch party on Christmas day at Aunt Beatrice's house in Rennes. We took the bus at noon and were the first to arrive. There was an aperatif of champagne, bread with meat and crab spreads, nuts, different purées to try. Lunch was the same crowd as the night before minus the kids, Nathalie, and Samuel who were with the other side of the family.

On to the food: a real Christmas food tradition is fois gras, which we ate on toast with fig jam and ham and beef strips kind of like prochutto. Sweet white wine was served with that. Christmas day lunch was a chapon, a nurtured chicken the size of a turkey. This was served with farce, a delicious mix of sausage, raisins, and onion; cooked chesnuts; and potatos gratin with cream and cheese. I was so full, but we had to power through more cheeses with red wine and dessert--all of the leftovers of the night before, plus a chocolate cake! I ate so much: it was delicious!

PA and I went to his apartment for awhile so that he could check things online and I could nap. We bussed back to the same place for a dinner of leftovers, which were still good but I was still full from lunch. After some last conversation and some playing with Clémentine and Martin and their new toys, PA's immediate family and I returned to Vitré to see if Santa had passed by there too ;)

He had, in fact, and he even left some cute things for me--placemats, a bath towel, a soap dispensing girl, a French dessert cookbook, and a bracelet with a dog charm! Samuel and I put together Clé's vanity, and we all danced along with the "Jingle Bell Rock" Santa in the living room a few last times before bed.

PA and I then had the Lakers v. Heat game to watch (sadly lost). The next morning Nathalie's family left for Nancy and we spent a quiet day in Vitré. That was nice after a whirlwind Christmas!

Now it's time to try out some French desserts!

Gingerbread, or pain d'épice!

Despite my illness, I trekked out to Vitré Monday afternoon to hang out with Caitlin before she left for her Christmas in Norway adventure. We made good spicy chili and cookies! First, her creation of oatmeal, raisin, chocolate chip, and walnut! Mmmm! Then we found a gingerbread recipe online and tested it out. Caitlin wasn't a fan, but I was! We also had no cookie cutters, so we had to freehand a gingerbread man, horse, tree, star, heart, santa hat, present, etc. I also kept half the dough to make later.

Oatmeal, raisin, chocolate chip, and walnut cookies! Phew!

Hand cutting the gingerbread shapes!

There was also a shopping run sometime in there so I could find a a last Christmas gift. Apparently, Vitré also blasts music through speakers on every corner, so I was serenaded by Lady Gaga's "Telephone," lol! I stopped by PA's mom's house to say hi to the whole family and share cookies. PA also tried to talk me into going to the doctor the next day... :/ I took the train home to Rennes for a good night's sleep.

I did feel kind of better the next morning, so I did laundry and cleaned up... Then, I noticed my ear hurting, so I went to the doctor that afternoon. Lucky me, I had a sinus infection that had spread to my ear! Tsss... I got five medicines to cure me and felt better by that evening. PA also came back to hang out with me, so it was a cozy evening of watching ninja movies and "It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia."

That brings us to Wednesday, which was PA's mom's birthday. We stopped in Leonidas for white Belgian chocolates for her. We took a bus to Saint Gregoire to meet PA's sister Nathalie, Samuel, and the kids for a ride back to Vitré for the birthday evening. I finished off the gingerbread cookie making there using shape ideas from PA and Clémentine, so we ended up with flowers, a star, a man, a sheep, a scooter (Clé's special request), a basketball, a heart, a cat, and some others I can't remember now. Everyone liked them :) We had a lovely veal and potato dinner capped off with gingerbread, a chocolate-strawberry birthday cake, and the white chocolates I had bought! Mmm!

Now, PA and I are back in Rennes to run errands. I'm going to take him to the Mairie (Mayor's building) for the lights show tonight! I'll try to film some of it to share as well! Tomorrow night is a Christmas dinner at one of his aunt's houses in Rennes, and Friday is another at another aunt's house! Lots of presents to come too!

Let me share some of my apartment Christmas decor with you:

Christmas tree surrounded by gifts!

Stockings on the "mantle."

My ornament wall says it all!

Holidays! Starting in St Malo!

Wow, a week to catch up on now! My last classes this term went well--we played a taboo-esque game that the kids enjoyed. It was kind of sad since I won't be working with these classes anymore--I have a whole new schedule for January and February. I just hope I did some good!

Then Friday was a bit of an adventure. I had to go to the immigration office for a medical exam so I could get my official residence permit. I ended up seeing five other assistants there at the same time! The process was very quick, one of the most efficient things I've seen in France or elsewhere: chest xray, immunization record, eye exam, height/weight, brief medical history, listen to lungs, check xray, blood pressure. All of this in three rooms in a hallway in under an hour! Bravo! I got my OFII sticker in my passport and immediately had a copy sent to the office for my housing assistance money. All paperwork taken care of, I'm legal!

So Katherine joined up with my afterwards and we headed to the train station to pick up Herbert, an assistant in Quimper who was coming in for an afternoon immigration appointment. He is from Louisianna, and I had talked to him on facebook before, so he asked me to be his Rennes tour guide for the day. For the morning, we walked all around the center city, ate tartines for lunch, and let him buy a jar of Mississippi Belle peanut butter at my grocery store--apparently, I'm lucky they stock it!

He headed off to his appointment, and I saw PA for a bit. When Herbert was done, it was snowing like crazy, so I took him to Le Haricot Rouge for hot chocolate and a few hours of warm, cozy conversation. They were even playing a Black Eyed Peas album, so we rocked out to that. The crowning moment of the day was the lights show at the mairie; Rennes literally projects lights onto the mayor's building in an awesome Disney-esque animation show! I'll film it sometime soon because it is every night until Janurary 2. Then poor Herbert had a 40 minute train delay! Still, he picked a good day to visit Rennes!

Saturday was a real French adventure! Katherine and I took the train to St. Malo, a walled coastal city. Even though we had slush under our feet and rain coming down on our heads, we trekked into the old city and took tons of pictures of the buildings, walls, beaches, sea! At one point, we realized that music was coming from speakers on every street corner--from Christmas carols to Rhianna! Cute or creepy? The jury is still out on that one...

Marina at the approach to the city gates.

Islands and swimming area off of St. Malo.

We had a delicious three course lunch of warm goat cheese salad, lamb and mashed potatos, and chocolate crepes. In the afternoon, the weather turned around and we had blue skies and beautiful light. We returned to the walls and walked around half the city on them, admiring the adorableness of it all. We also did a fair bit of shopping at the Christmas market (where I spent about 50 euros...) and in all the shops and enjoyed some warm, spiced wine.

Drinking warm wine!

St. Malo Christmas Market.

After a coffee and warmth break at a bar/cafe, we hit the streets again and saw a ton more people out! This led us to believe that the people of St Malo are vampires... ;) So more shopping, seeing the house of the Duchess of Anne, trying the Breton specialty butter cake, and walking the other half of the walls was on the late afternoon agenda. The lighting at the snowy beach was incredible! Just admire these photos below (and all of the ones in my Rennes Winter album) to get an idea.

We had a last cup of tea/chocolate in a classy salon du thé facing the cathedral before we had to trek back to the train station through the ice. It was a gorgeous day in a cute city full of lots of good food! A nice way to start off a holiday break.

Today I'm in the apartment resting, nursing my cold, maybe even cleaning a bit! Everyone is scattering for break, so I'll be entertaining myself for the most part. Skype me!

A cute festive touch at the St Malo market^^